Tell me about your connection to the ocean?
Growing up, I spent my summer holidays in St Agnes, in Cornwall. My dad took up surfing when I was six years old and I’ve been copying him ever since.
Do you think the sea is a healer/spiritual?
Yes the sea is definitely a place to heal and nurture yourself. Recently, I’ve gone through a big break-up and the sea has been my safehaven, where I have found myself crying, laughing and healing. It really is a place where you can lose yourself and find yourself at the same time.
How does surfing make you feel?
Free. Present. Brave. Triumphant.
How does it feel to be in the water?
It’s an out-of-body experience. Once you get over the initial shock from the cold water, the adrenaline wakes you up, mentally and physically.